The Alaska Railroad Hurricane Turn Train is one of the few
flag-stop trains left in the country. It
runs only 4 days a week in the summer and once a month in the winter. The
locals use the train for accessing supplies.
Tourists use the train for backcountry hiking, fishing, hunting and
adventure. We rode the train to join in
the fun, and we were not disappointed. Without assigned seats, we were free to wander
about the train and met many interesting characters.
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| The turn-around point - from the 300-foot high trestle in Hurricane Gulch. |
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| Mt. Denali in all her splendor... |
The Hurricane train consisted of two passenger cars, a car
with elevated bubble top seating, two engines – each pointed in opposite
directions to facilitate the return trip – and the baggage car, a box car
equipped with racks, the large doors open on either side. The scenery was incredible as we rode along
tracks that followed the route of the Susitna River. Mt. Denali rose from the forested hills,
reaching for the blue sunlit sky.
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| Taking in the view from the baggage car door... |
Moving from the passenger car to the elevated bubble car, we
realized that we much preferred having the wind in our faces. We found our way to the baggage car. The wide-open doors afforded us wonderful
views and a gentle breeze. The friendly
conductor, sat at a desk. A zip lock
bag, with the words US Mail written with a sharpie was taped to the wall. Locals can use the train to send their mail
to civilization when they need to. We
talked with him about the things he’s seen, about riding the rails and his 40-year
career with the railroad. When the train
stopped to let off a group of white water rafters. We helped them unload their gear and waved
goodbye as the train began to move away from the stop. This is where the action was. We’d found a place to ride out the seven-hour
trip.
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| At one of the flag stops, a family gets on board after a fishing trip. |
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| One of the baby bears descending the tree. |
The train slowed as we approached a group of 15 young men
and women between the ages of 16 and 21.
They boarded the train with their large packs. They appeared to have been hiking for quite
some time. We watched as they threw
their packs into the baggage car and then smelled them as they wafted by. Yes, they had been in the Alaska wilderness
for a while. Preferring the fragrance of
flowers and soap to body odor ripened in the heat of physical activity, rain
and wilderness for weeks on end, I suggested to Alex that we avoid them. They made their way to one of the two
passenger cars and parked themselves and their stench inside.
Later, as we stood in the baggage car, watching the
wilderness go by, a few of the teenaged hikers joined us. They reminded me of my kids. Their banter was irresistible. I had to inquire about their adventure. Turns out, they’d been on a month-long wilderness
leadership course. Thirty days of
intense wilderness training to bring out the best in them, to challenge the
limits of their endurance and cause them to bond with strangers from all
corners of the world – strangers, now friends, laughing in the baggage car of
the Alaska Railroad Hurricane train. One
young man in particular, Andy, drew us in. As we asked questions, he was eager
to fill us in on details of their adventure.
He was an open book, a gushing fountain of anecdotes, longing to share
his adventure with us “parent” types. He
hadn’t had contact with his family for 30 days.
He was eager to ease the pressure of the stories waiting to explode from
his memory. He reminded me of my son as he dropped his guard and shared the
many things he’d learned in the Alaska wilderness.
I asked him to share his most poignant lesson: What will he take away and remember and use
for the rest of his life? He thought for
a minute and then confessed: “I wrote
down fifteen things that I learned.” He
disappeared and returned with a small index card on which he’d written fifteen
short sentences, each profound, each a nugget of wisdom from the heart of a
17-year-old young man. I wish I’d taken
a photo of his list. I’m sure he
wouldn’t have minded. His list consisted of things like: First impressions aren’t always
accurate. When you feel like quitting,
keep going. The steepest mountains have
the best views. See what I mean? As our conversation progressed, we discovered
that he is a believer. He was going to
take what he’d learned and share it with his church…his youth group. Whoever hears his words will be blessed, I
have no doubt.
We asked him and another boy what they were most looking
forward to when they got back to civilization (the Hurricane train is
transportation only, no food or drinks, not even water was available on
board). They did not hesitate to name
the food they’d craved the most.
Pizza! One of their leaders had
promised ice cream when they arrived in Talkeetna and that was in the forefront
of their minds as well. Food. Teenage boys.
It was a stupid question…of course that’s what they were looking forward
to! Andy pulled out his index card
again, turned it over and shared the list of foods he’s been craving. We laughed, and as I listened to their
stories, the mother in me longed to produce a pizza, some juicy hamburgers and
milkshakes…I had an overwhelming urge to feed them.
Eventually, Andy and the other boy left the baggage car and
sat with their friends in one of the two passenger cars. When they left, I realized that their odor
hadn’t been all that offensive…perhaps because we were standing in the breeze
of the open door of the baggage car, or perhaps the sweet fragrance of
enthusiasm and joy had overwhelmed the stench of a month-long adventure that
had changed the teenaged boys into men.
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| The hikers walking into Talkeetna for the longed-for ice cream! |
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